Monday, June 30, 2008

Taekkyon: The base of all hand to hand combat in Korea

I wrote this for the August issue of the Korea Sun (www.thekoreasun.com) .



The Life, Death and Ressurection of Korea's Oldest Martial Art.

The music begins to play. A circle is formed surrounding the two in the middle as they sway side to side. Their movements are smooth, fluid, and rhythmic… Although this may sound like a romantic dance between two lovers, I’m actually describing one of Korea’s oldest martial arts: taekkyon.

This traditional art form, though far from romantic, has been said to hold the origins of all the bare-hand martial arts currently practiced in Korea. The creation of this art has not been accredited to a sole individual; its origins stem from the basic evolution of hand to hand combat. Although there is no definite date as to when it came into practice, a painting found in a grave from the Goguryo dynasty suggests that taekkyon has been around since the 5th or 6th century AD.

Originally, taekkyon was practiced by the nobility for self defence and personal well being. In the Silla dynasty (7th to 10th centuries) an elite society of youths known as the Hwarang, were also trained in this deadly art form. The popularity of taekkyon peaked between the 9th and 12th century with both the ruling class and the common people practicing the art. From the king to the farmers, taekkyon was a well-liked pastime. However in the 13th century, with the gradual movement of society towards literature, and the military opting for the sword over bare-hand combat, taekkyon became more favoured as a folk custom.

Up until the Japanese occupation (1910 – 1945), taekkyon was still considered an important piece of Korean heritage. However, during the occupation the practice of taekkyon was banned and forced underground. Only a handful of masters continued to train secretly under the cover of night. By the time Korea won its independence, this ancient martial art was nearly extinct. The Korea Taekkyon Association attributes the sole survival of taekkyon to one person: grandmaster Song Duk Ki. With his diligent effort he was able to train a select few who would in turn, insure the survival of this ancient art form in the years to come.

Presently, taekkyon is still not very popular. But this sport has been gaining ground in recent years. In 1983 it was designated “Important Intangible Cultural Asset No. 76”. Also, in 2001 taekkyon was officially approved as specialty athletics by the Korea Sports Council. One of the main reasons it has a hard time gaining popularity is that, while it is the predecessor of taekwondo, it lives in the shadow of its younger brother. There are few who know the difference between these two sports.

Similar to taekwondo, taekkyon uses kicks as its primary method of attack. There is very little defence used in taekkyon; attacks are often answered with another attack. In a match, two fighters will square off close to each other and continually change their stance in a rhythmic movement. The main objective is not to injure the opponent but bring them down unharmed. The whole battle looks like an ancient dance until the kicks start flying. Youtube “taekkyon” (also spelled “taekyun” and “taekkyeon”) and you’ll see what I mean.

Unfortunately, due to the lack of training facilities and knowledgeable instructors, this ancient sport will most likely continue to be a dying martial art. Yet in my eyes, this is its major draw; how cool is it to be among the few people with knowledge of this 1500 year old fighting style? Though the passing of time is its biggest adversary, I have a feeling that this historical dance will not soon be forgotten. Its unique blend of power and grace will be survived, if only through a handful of students.

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

back from nam..

Becky and I had our week's holiday last week. We get one week off in our year's contract so we decided to check out Vietnam. For an illustrated update, click here and here to see the photo albums I put up on facebook.

We arrived in Hanoi (the capital) on a Saturday, and then we waited around for our flight to Da Nang. At this time we could have exchanged the heaps of Korean Won that we had with us, but we just wanted to catch our flight and get there. Big mistake. We got to Da Nang, and found out that ONLY at Hanoi, and Ho Chi Minh airports would they accept Korean Won. We were stuck with no money, and I forgot my four digit pin on my credit card.. So I used the good ol' Bank of Montreal card, and it got us through (with a few costly service charges).

The taxi driver who found us our hotel assured us that the hotel could loan us the money until the banks opened on Monday, and they did. We got 1,000,000 dong (their currency is called 'dong' .. i found this funny..), which was about $58 Canadian. This trip was almost completely unplanned out (this kind of adventure is new for me), and Becky and I didn't really know what we wanted to do for the week, or where we wanted to go. All we knew was that we wanted our open water diver's license.

This could end up being a super long post if I go through the week, so i'll summarize it like this: The first 3 days Becky and I went diving; one dive in the pool and then 5 dives in the ocean. We had our license by Wednesday. Thursday and Friday were shopping days, where we perused the market and bought some Christmas gifts (we'll be back home for Christmas this year). Saturday we took a scooter to Marble Mountain and packed up and caught a flight back to Busan. The pictures illustrate the journey better than I'm going to write, but I will mention my favorite highlight.

On Friday afternoon I went to meet up with this Vietnamese family I met a few days before. I met a guy named Sang, a fisherman in Hoi An (the city we were in). He showed us "the real Vietnam life" by taking us on a boat tour with his father, and even showing us how they catch fish. It was incredible to see this side of the country.


This is Sang, a 17 year old fisherman. His English is excellent, but he has yet to complete school. He had to take two years off to save money before he can finish his last two years. He told Becky and I that a year of school costs about $100 - this gives a picture of the situation out there.


Here's Sang's father, celebrating his catch.


Bringing home the bacon, or... fish.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

king sejong the great

the following is an article i wrote for the korea sun magazine. i really liked researching this guy; his life story has so much more that can be squeezed into 500 words or less (this one is way over the limit!), but i hope i did it justice.

King Sejong ‘the Great’

They Don’t Give This Title Out to Just Anyone

The history of Korea dates back thousands of years and has been shaped by a host of influential characters. Among the most significant of these is King Sejong, the only ruler to have ever been given the title ‘Great’ by the people of Korea. Thanks to the Sillok, or ‘Annals of the Choson Dynasty’, there is a lot of historical data written on the king, allowing a clear window in which through view his life, character and spirit. What relevance does a king from six hundred years ago have in today’s modern Korea? You might be surprised.

The life of King Sejong is like a beacon from the past, still visible in today’s progressive culture. One of the ways he is viewed today is through his achievements and innovations. Sejong began his reign with many ambitions. Being a well educated man he could see that there was much to be improved on in his newly acquired kingdom. In order to make his objectives come to pass, he established a royal institute of research called the Chiphyonjon, or ‘Jade Hall’. This building housed up to thirty-two scholars who served as the king’s research team, helping his projects come to fruition.

With this team of academics, Sejong was able to complete many of these undertakings, although nothing happened quickly. The reorganization of the taxation system took twenty-six years to complete, and it was thirty years before the national ceremonies were standardized. However long it took, the king was determined to meet the challenging targets he had set for himself.

What sets him apart from other rulers of this time is his true concern for his people, and his actions and achievements confirm this. Some of his accomplishments include contributions to medical science, advances in agriculture, astronomy, and the development of standard musical notes. Understanding the importance of literacy, Sejong improved the standard of printing technology, even creating larger fonts to aid the elderly in reading. All these triumphs greatly benefited the culture and the nation, but surprisingly these are not what he is remembered by.

The Korean alphabet or Hangul is widely considered the greatest legacy of King Sejong the Great. Ten years in the making, the new Korean written language was published in 1446, in the 28th year of Sejong’s reign. At this time Chinese characters were the only form of a written language. The king was greatly distressed because amongst the uneducated people there were many who were unable to read or write. The creation of a basic 28 letters was to level out the class differences, allowing the commoner to be just as literate as the nobleman.

Hangul is the only alphabet created by an individual for which the motives behind its creation were clearly set out and explained. Each consonant symbol resembles the shape of the mouth or throat while pronouncing that particular sound, while the vowels were formed after the fundamental characters of heaven, earth and man. Compared to Chinese characters, the written language prior to Hangul, these few symbols are incredibly easy to learn and understand. Unlike any other writing system in the world, scholars have called Hangul one of the greatest achievements in the field of linguistics. To King Sejong, it was so much more. Hangul is the embodiment of the king; it is the response to, and the atonement for injustices and inequalities within the Korean kingdom.

King Sejong the Great undoubtedly deserves his title. With thirty-two years in power, he was able to inspire a nation, remove class barriers, and set down examples of how a population should be governed and cared for. By ruling with understanding and compassion, Sejong clearly sets a precedent as to how any kingdom should be run; the love for people comes before the love of self.


an update

the last little while has been a mess of activity: from traveling to planning other trips, to getting new jobs to buying cool things; this last month has been awesome.

first: geoje-do. this is the name of one of the largest islands in korea, second only to jeju. i got to travel there a couple of times this past month, both times being incredible and refreshing. the first time was a weekend spent with jessie's parents, and the second was a camping trip in which kevin, meaghan, jessie, justin, becky and i went camping on the edge of this amazing pebble beach. (for pictures see here)

second: vietnam. throughout our one year contract becky and i get a week of vacation, and that time off has already begun. tomorrow is the korean 'memorial day', in which the country pays tribute to its fallen soldiers. on saturday becky and i will board a plane traveling to da nang, vietnam. we'll stay 8 days there, with the theme of the trip being scuba diving. i like having themes to things - they are like having 'goals', but they are easier to obtain (probably because they are not called goals).

third: magazine writer. so a little while back i responded to an ad that spoke of a magazine looking to expand throughout all of korea. after sending in a few articles, the publisher emailed me back and asked if i wanted to become a staff writer/photographer! i was, and still am stoked. it's a monthly magazine called the korea sun (check it out!), and my trash or treasure article is actually the 'feature' for june! i actually suggested that each issue have some sort of history article (cause the history of korea needs to be shared - it's really interesting), and so, among other articles that i could send in, i get to write the history section! gregg finley would be so proud...

fourth: motorcycle. i am now the proud owner of a 1997 daelim 125cc motorcycle. i'm sure i'll have a picture soon. it was a bit of a hassle to get it, but all in all, i'm pleased with my purchase. this bike will do many a trips to geoje, and hopefully to festivals and events at which i can take some sweet pictures, or write an article. busan drivers suck by the way (just in case you were wondering). i feel like they receive their license free when they buy a cell phone and a satellite tv for their car (why wouldn't you want to watch your favorite tv show while you talk on the phone and drive?).

yup... it's been busy - but it's been fun. oh! and i moved to a bigger apartment too!! the new apartment news deserves to be more than just a sidenote, but i'm done with the update. all you need to know is that this apartment gets natural sunlight (a giant step up from the last one).

if you are into history at all, check out the history of korea - i'll post the history article i wrote for the magazine soon, if any are interested - it's on one of the hero's of 'the land of the morning calm', king sejong the great.