almost done..

It's been 15 months since I first arrived on the land of the morning calm and my time here is just about up. Becky and I have been trying to figure out all the things we want to do and see before we leave here - but I think we've pretty much check all the "to do's" off the list. Now all that seems to be left is selling some stuff off, and packing up.
There's been some highlights and lowlights in the Korean experience, and in this blog I want to share those with you. In the spirit of "Top Five's", here it is.
The top five's about my Korean experience (in no particular order). The good news, or the bad news first? .. lets start with the bad (save the best for last).

The Top Five Negatives About My Korean Experience
1. Turns out that Korean food is... well it's not what I expected it to be. I thought "yeah, Thai food is awesome, so is Malaysian food, and Chinese food, and Japanese food..." My mom might say, "when you assume, you make an ass out of u and me." .. i like that one.

2. Living 10 minutes from the beach isn't what I first thought it would be like. I imagined morning runs on the beach (in slow motion), and surfing lots on weekends. Turns out that even though Korea is surrounded by ocean, the waves suck! The surfing contest turned into a paddling contest this year.

(I would have put that my apartment was a negative, but... I moved to a much sweeter place, so it heads for the positive)

3. The distance between us all. Busan isn't a big city, but it is a thick city. I imagined all of us 'former ssuers' living in a kind of community (I don't mean living in a big yellow building, but you know..), or at least close to each other where we could see each other often. We were at opposite corners of the city, and Jessie and Justin were not even in town! Those potluck weekends, or those night's out just didn't happen as much as I had wanted, or hoped.

4. My goal about learning Korea has come to a crashing disappointment. I studied for the first month or two - even had a language exchange with a Korean friend - but I gave up soon after I realized that I would probably never use it again after I leave Korea.

5. Just as I'm about to cash in my last two paychecks, and my bonus month paycheck, the Korean won has fallen the lowest it has in 10 years against the dollar. This means that I'm making thousands of dollars less than I would have if it had stayed constant from the time I arrived here. I don't want to add it all up because it is just too painful.

Top Five Positives About My Korean Experience
1. I survived a year in a culture that I couldn't communicate with. Not only was I able to get by, but I made some good Korean friends along the way (the English speaking ones). I feel accomplished in being able to navigate my way around the city with only using a tourist map - unable to ask people questions about direction, food or drink (it might sound like a lame accomplishment, but it makes me feel like I find my way around here, I'll never feel lost anywhere else.)

2. The tickets for professional sports events are super cheap! I got to see a basketball game, soccer game, and like, 5 baseball games, all for what it would cost to get half a ticket back home. And although the soccer and basketball might not be the caliber as back home, the baseball has got to be - these guys won the Olympics.

3. I was able to save; the expenses are minimal. I got a free apartment, and free flights here. The food is just as cheap to eat out, as it is to cook for myself. The stuff I bought, I can sell to another foreigner for almost the same price. I moved out of a small dump with one window that faced a brick wall, to a two room apartment with a view of the harbor (sure, it's the ship building harbor, but so what? I can see water..). The living conditions are pretty sweet in terms of my expenses toward them.

4. The travel. I was able to buy a motorcycle and travel around a bunch of South Korea. Camping on beautiful islands and driving through paddy fields surrounded by mountains - it was awesome! I got to check out Japan, and spend some time in Vietnam. The experience alone would be worth it even if I hadn't saved money. (well... then again... all that debt?...)

5. The experience with the magazine The Korea Sun. I was invited to be a staff writer for the magazine several months back, and that gave me a bunch of experience with what it's like to be an actual journalist. I don't know what I want to do career-wise, but photo-journalism is an option. With the writer/photographer job I also got a media pass- this was the coolest part. With this pass I got to go backstage at nearly every event, and sit with the press. I got to go ring side for the muay thai competition, and on top of the halfpipe at the TreX-Games. I got to sit with the other photographers (who have lenses about 50x bigger than mine), and watch the baseball game on the field (in 'high-fiving range' of the ball players). Also, writing the Korean history column every month has really helped me get to know, and respect Korea's history and culture. I first suggested this article because I felt that foreigners were living here with no idea about the cool past that this country has. I wanted to share it with them - and it's great that it all seemed to work out.

These are the top fives of both the positive and the negative aspects of my Korean experience. Funny, it's all about expectations. I suppose that if I had none coming into Korea I might have less to call negative in the end... But I think, even if I expected the Won to fall so much, I would still feel gypped.

the father of korea

here is an article that i wrote for the korea sun magazine. it's about one of my favorite korean folk tales...

If one looks just beyond the first appearance of this modern industrialized country they would find a wealth of cultural treasure. The stories of Korean heritage date back thousands of years and are greatly contribute to the contemporary culture of today. Arguably the most famous of these tales is the story of Tan-gun, the legendary founder of Korea. Although it can be told in a number of ways, here’s my rendition of the story.

Legend has it that Hwan-in (who was the god and ruler of all) sent his son Hwan-ung to earth to build a new country in the east. He was given three divine assistants: the clouds, the winds, and the rains. Hwan-in also gave his son the souls of 3,000 others, an entire race, to help him in his task. They descended to Mount Taebaeksan (now called Baekdusan), and Hwan-ung named this place Shinshi, “City of God”.

Not far from Shinshi was a cave that housed a tiger and a bear. Both animals witnessed the happiness of the humans under Hwan-ung’s rule and prayed to become human themselves. Moved by the animal’s prayers, Hwan-ung gave them instructions to follow in order for their request to be granted. He told them that becoming human requires great patience and perseverance. He said “you must stay secluded in your cave for 100 days without sunlight, and eat nothing but these 20 garlic cloves and this bundle of mugwort. If you can persevere through this, then you will become human.”

The tiger and bear agreed and followed Hwan-ung’s instructions. After a number of days living in these conditions, the tiger gave up and left the cave. However, the bear persisted and stuck to the challenge. As the dawn broke on the hundred-and-first day, a beautiful young woman emerged from the cave. The bear-woman was so stunning in fact, that Hwan-ung proposed to her. Soon after their marriage the bear-woman gave birth to a son and named him Tan-gun, meaning “high priest” or “founder”.

When Hwan-ung departed from Earth in 2333 BC, Tangun became the first great ruler of Korea. He called the land Choson, which means “Land of the Morning Calm”, and here taught his people about government, agriculture, worship of God, and other important matters.

This story has been passed down through generations for thousands of years, and occupies a special place in the heart of Korean culture. Although there are some who take the story as a literal truth, and some who make their own interpretations. Personally, I see the story as a narrative describing the character and struggle of the Korean people. The bear and tiger were representations of the different tribes. It was the perseverance of the bear tribe, as opposed to the strength of the tiger tribe that, led to survival through these very harsh conditions. Also, the name Tan-gun might just be a title, as this label had been given to kings of old, expressing how their rule was divinely blessed.

However this story is interpreted, one thing is for certain; the history of the Korean people is rich with beauty and sorrow, successes and failures, victories and defeats: it all depends on how you view it.